It’s extremely easy to Google “temples near me” while living in South Korea and end up in a tranquil place within minutes–even without a car! But, with so many temples to choose from, you can quickly become inundated by the sheer amount that are available for visiting on the Korean peninsula.
That’s where this post aims to help–the Doksanseong Fortress and temple are a choice destination for some peace, solidarity, and epic cityscape photos, all within an easy 20-minute drive from Osan Air Base. Check out this amazing site for a wonderful submersion into South Korea’s history, Buddhist traditions, and heritage!
Doksanseong Fortress is just outside Osan Air Base (about 20 minutes north) and is unique in that it sits atop a hill overlooking the city. Additionally, it was originally built as a lookout and defense location from invading armies! The fortress, which was built during the Baekje period (sometime between 57 BC to 668 AD), has a 1,095m-long wall surrounding the temple and pagodas and was placed in a strategic location given the elevated, 360-degree views of the area. General Gwon Yul credits victory to this spot during the Japanese invasion as this location was key to defending present-day Seoul from attacks.
As you approach this Fortress, you’ll have the option to drive all the way to the top parking lot and tour only the temple grounds or, you can park just below the road leading to the summit and hike up; I recommend the latter. If you park there, you’ll be at the beginning of a trailhead that leads down into some gorgeous hiking trails that run through the Korean forests that are definitely worth your time exploring. Additionally, you’ll have some amazing views of Osan and the surrounding countryside many kilometers away!
As you continue up the road towards the fortress, you’ll find the entrance within the East Gate. I say within because it’s literally in the wall! It’s a small, 6-foot tall walkway directly through the fortress wall; how cool! As you pass through the entrance, you’ll be received in the temple grounds within the Doksanseong Fortress. As you rise over the small hill after passing through the East Gate, the temple appears majestically to your right with an ancient Command Post hovering in the background over the Main Hall’s shoulder. It’s easy to stop here and rest your eyes gaze on the delicacy of the temple’s architecture and the craftsmanship of the wall–find one of the many benches and do just that! Take your time and admire these historic artifacts, there’s no rush.
I thought about going directly up to the Main Hall and peering inside to see what relics lay inside but, decided to tour the fortress boundary instead. I believe I made the right choice as I was rewarded with some majestic 360-degree views of Osan and the countryside. Luckily, the pollution was less than unbearable that day and I had a relatively cloudless sky.
For miles, I could stop and look out to the horizon and let my eyes wander across the mountainous Korean countryside. As my eyes bounced around, I pondered if I’d ever end up hiking any of those areas and what it must have been like to spot the enemy coming across the various ranges. After my daydreaming had ended, I then stumbled up to the Command Post where one can sit and rest on the benches for the best views on the mountain. I highly suggest you do the same!
Continuing on about the temple grounds, I started back down the hill as the sun was starting to set. The temple fell into an evening shadow that magnified the zen energy more than I had anticipated experiencing. I came around, back in front of the main hall, and chose to go up to what I learned was the medicinal Buddha, right next to the main hall. There, I discovered a mediation mat that was somehow calling my name.
I promptly removed my shoes, sat cross-legged, closed my eyes, and began to focus on my breathing. Not knowing if this was how meditation was supposed to be done here, I must have guessed correctly because I could feel a sense of peace wash over me as my shoulders dropped and my stress all but faded away. The birds whistled in the nearby pines and the bugs buzzed past my shoulders as they hurried to finish their daily tasks before nightfall. Faintly, I could hear the wind rustling the leaves on the nearby trees as if the earth took one final breath before succeeding to the evening.
My eyes opened slowly and I took in my surroundings. I couldn’t help but feel a massive smile spread across my face as I realized that I had just produced an organic moment consisting of meditating in a Korean temple as the sunset cast blurry shadows across the Korean countryside I was in; How. Freaking. Surreal lol.
I put my shoes back on, took a peak inside the main temple, then went about the rest of my day, walking on air.
The Doksanseong Fortress is one of three easily-accessible temples should you be stationed at Osan Air Base or Camp Humphreys–check out the other two here!