When it comes to airports, I’ve always said that “in time, you’ll learn to hate this place”, and I still believe that. As a service member, leaving a bit of your soul behind as you go somewhere new is part of the job. Whether it’s your husband, wife, kiddos, pets, or favorite assignment, airports are bound to bring you dread at some point. 

Leaving Zakynthos felt just like that lol.

I’ll start this post by telling you that Memorial Day 2023 was epic; nothing short. Ciara and I spent a beautiful 4-day weekend in Zakynthos, Greece.

From swimming with sea turtles to sunbathing on an isolated beach, read on as I recount what is likely the best beach vacation I’ve ever had.

Why visit Zakynthos?

If I had to sum up the beautiful Greek island of Zakynthos in one sentence, I’d say it’s that, “I didn’t expect ___________________.”

Things to fill that blank include:

• …such blue waters.

• …to swim with sea turtles.

• …to sunbathe on a secluded beach, only accessible by boat.

• …to eat the best Greek salad on top of a hill overlooking an olive grove at sunset.

• ...for everyone to be so damn friendly.

So, you might be reading this and saying, “Sounds awesome but, don’t all Greek islands offer those things?”

In short, no.

That’s like saying that every mountain town in the Rocky Mountains offers the same thing.

Sure, they might all offer incredible views of the mountains but, only at Cabin Coffee company in Breckenridge, Colorado can you find the best cup of coffee ever made with white coffee beans. And only in Vail, Colorado can you stand atop Blue Sky Basin and look north until the distant mountains reflect the same shade of blue as the sky above.

In Zakynthos, you’ll find diving with sea turtles to be as easy as jumping in the hotel swimming pool. And only in the town of Tsilivi, just 10 minutes outside of Zakynthos, will you find the best homemade Moussaka at the friendliest family-owned restaurant called Avra. Leaving, after your three free shots with the entire staff, is like leaving your grandparents’ house at Christmas; you could almost feel them setting the timers on their clocks in anticipation of your return.

And where do I begin with the clarity and healing powers encapsulated by the surrounding waters? The locals will tell you that Zakynthos has the bluest water in the world, and after experiencing the neon, Gatorade-like phenomenon near Sfogio Beach, I can testify that they are all telling the truth.

And finally, the culture. To explain this, let me convey a story.

So, Ciara and I had just rented a bright orange ATV from a local rental company. It was cheaper than any rental car and looked like a hell of a lot more fun too lol. Riding through olive groves on our way to the Shipwreck lookout point, we passed through at least a dozen small towns. Without fail, every single shop vendor we passed would stand up, put on the world’s largest smile, and wave as they saw us coming.

Then, when you’d sit down at any restaurant, the waitstaff would elaborate on how happy they were that we came to visit their restaurant and how they hoped that the food was everything you ever wanted. Prior to leaving, they’d thank you at least a dozen times before saying that you were always welcome back anytime and that they looked forward to seeing you again soon.

And I felt they meant it!

So, why visit Zakynthos? Simply put: To relax and experience things you never thought possible on the same trip.

But let me be clear, I don’t want you to mistake that relaxing feeling as in just another a stranger in a foreign place where you won’t be bothered.

I mean relax in the sense of kicking off your shoes at your grandparents’ house prior to that big welcoming hug accompanied by the familiar aroma of a home cooked meal and a flood of feel-good memories. That’s the relaxing I’m describing.

What to do in Zakynthos?

I can promise that a 4-day weekend in Zakynthos isn’t long enough to do everything you want. And you might be saying, “well, that seems a little presumptuous and boastful Kyle; you don’t know what I’m in to”.

True.

But, even I didn’t know what I was in to until I visited Zakynthos lol that’s how I KNOW, without a doubt, that a 4-day weekend is guaranteed to leave you wanting more.

Swimming with sea turtles

As a nature buff, I’ve always had a supreme appreciation for all of God’s creations. Well, except for anything with over eight legs lol. Other than that, I’ve always made it a point to appreciate the world around me because one day it (or we) won’t be around anymore to admire it.

It was Sunday afternoon when Ciara and I decided we’d rent a boat for a few hours. We wanted to visit some of the private beaches and coves on the west side of the island after seeing all the incredible photos around our base location in Tsilivi.

As we slowly departed one of the little inlets along the shoreline, we began approaching what I thought was a rather odd spot for a large rock so far from the shoreline. It didn’t even have a buoy on it to signal that it was there. Ciara was admiring the seascape around us and didn’t even see it as we got closer!

As I took a second glance, I noticed this rock had a distinct turtle-like shape with flippers and all. Turns out, we were encroaching on a sea turtle! I cut the throttle, all but tossing Ciara backwards into the back of the small vessel, and killed the engine. Without hesitation, I looked at Ciara and yelled “man the boat!” before throwing myself overboard with my goggles around my neck.

Five strokes later, I was fulfilling a desire I never even knew I had: to swim with a sea turtle. He was close to the surface, and I could see him as clearly as you can see the words on this page. I approached him slowly to keep from startling him and as I did so, he turned his body to reveal these large, beautiful eyes adorned by a deep green shell on his back.

As I looked below me, rays of light ran past my shadow and created an optical illusion similar to what being trapped in a rotating kaleidoscope might feel like. It was at that moment I realized I sure was terrified of whatever might be lurking below me lol. As I looked ahead though, I saw nothing but grace radiating from this tranquil creature. With a few flips of his fins, and continued on his journey through the vast, blue void; undisturbed and unafraid.

Sunbathing on a private beach

What comes to mind when you picture a “private beach”? Is it something like a secluded, sectioned off part of beach that belongs to a hotel? Maybe a stretch of paradise that, for the right price, you’re able to lay on without people bothering you?

That’s not what I’m talking about here.

What I’m talking about is a beach where you don’t even see another human being for hours on end, perhaps even the entire day. If that sounds like heaven (and believe me, it is), then you’ll definitely want to follow this guide to seek out a private beach while visiting Zakynthos.

Here’s how Ciara and I did it:

First, you’ll need a private boat. Much easier done than said; yes I typed that correctly lol. Every travel vendor on the island is willing to rent you a small speedboat for the day so you can easily find one in the area you’re staying. Ciara and I rented ours from the Porto Vromi beach area on a total whim!

As we took a break from admiring the hundreds of fish swimming along the ocean floor around Porto Vromi beach, we saw a few speedboats coming into a small dock. The side of the boat had the name of a rental company plastered along the side. Curiosity took over as we slummed over to the counter and casually asked what it would cost to rent a boat for, say, three hours.

“Three hours for $150; gas included you say?…take my money!“

Next thing we knew, we were on our way to the iconic Zakynthos Shipwreck (Navagio Beach) with the throttle of our small speedboat wide open.

As we finished admiring the beautifully decaying cigar smuggler at Shipwreck cove, we turned our sights south to some of the other recommended beaches.

Our first stop was Sfogio Beach, and it was perfect to say the least. There wasn’t a soul in sight! We dropped the anchor, popped on our goggles, and dove into deep blue water. 30-40 feet below us lied the ocean floor filled with massive boulders that had rolled off the mainland some thousands of years ago, and before us was a beach more desolate than a German town on any given Sunday.

The sand was like flour, and the color mimicked ivory white. As we picked the sand up and covered our legs and feet, we could feel the abrasive material exfoliate not only the dead skin cells, but the last few weeks and months of life’s worries as well.

And then, for three more hours, we repeated this beautiful chorus of our vacation song at three different coves, never making eye-contact with anyone other than each other.

Snorkeling in neon blue water

When you ask a local Greek how blue the water around Zakynthos is, they’ll tell you that it’s the bluest water in the world. Then again, when you ask ten different restaurant owners how their Moussaka is, they’ll tell you it’s the best in the world as well lol. However, after seeing this water with my very own eyes, I can attest that I have never seen water as blue as the water around Zakynthos.

In summary, there’s really no bad place to snorkel on Zakynthos. Even just outside of our Airbnb in Tsilivi, Ciara and I could spot dozens of tiny white fish with black stripes who would dart after our feet each time we kicked up a bit of the ocean floor. All you need is a cheap pair of goggles that don’t fog up, and a spot you can comfortably swim or dive in. 

However, if you’re seriously into snorkeling, I’d suggest heading to the southern portion of the island. Here, you’ll find sea turtles, small coral reefs, and schools of fish in the hundreds. Some of the frequent visitors to the island that Ciara and I talked to recommended the southern part of the island near the National Marine Park. After visiting the surrounding areas and spotting dozens of types of fish and sea turtles, I’d say they most certainly knew the best areas. 

When Ciara and I visited the beaches of Turtle Rock (by booking tickets through one of the many excursion companies), we saw everything from sea turtles to sea urchins. We even found multiple sand dollars on the ocean floor! Naturally, they became the best souvenir of the trip outside of our bronze-like tan lol.

Experiencing the island on an ATV or scooter

Zakynthos is a small enough island that you can easily visit most of it if you have around four to five days. Whether you want to do that by car, scooter, motorcycle, or ATV is up to you. When Ciara and I visited, we decided to rent a bright orange ATV for the day, capable of going over 60 km/h; not recommended to go that fast but, it is possible lol.

You might be thinking, “Well, I don’t need a rental because I can just take the bus.” Yep, you could do that but, even the locals will tell you that the public transportation is washy at best. Heck, the public transportation only departs from the airport like five or six times on Saturdays and even less during the week lol.

And you might be thinking “Well I didn’t budget a rental car/scooter/ATV into my vacation, I can’t afford that!” Wrong again! For only $35, you can rent a small >100cc scooter for the entire day; from 9am to 9pm! And the best part is, if you have a U.S. or Australian driver’s license, you can rent one no problem! Yep, no international driver’s license needed for this trip (same goes for the boats!).

To rent a scooter, ATV, or even a Nissan Juke, all you need to do is seek out one of the hundreds of tourist adventure/excursion stands across the island and inquire. It’s pretty great that you can rent a car and book a snorkeling excursion all from the same family lol. The Greeks really do just want to take care of you!

Hopefully, I’ve convinced you to rent some mode of transportation when you visit Zakynthos by this point. The next question is: where should you go?

Here’s a sample itinerary for a perfect day in Zakynthos

1. View a shipwreck on a beach

For starters, get the best view of the island from the Shipwreck viewpoint just north of Navagio Beach. From this small observation deck, you can see hundreds of miles to the west over the vast sea as well as a shipwreck some 400 feet right below you!

Run ashore from stormy weather in the 80s, this cigar-smuggling vessel was abandoned when all hope of sailing it again was lost. After an earthquake in 2022, officials restricted visitation to the beach for safety concerns, but boats are still able to anchor in the cove for a close view. In September 2023, it is likely the beach will reopen and allow visitors to walk along the sandy beaches that have trapped this retired maritime wonder.

2. Visit one of the many inland boutique shopping stores

Ciara and I departed the Shipwreck viewpoint filled with wonder and anticipation of what other treasures this island held. After lathering up another layer of sunscreen, we hopped on the ATV and drove south with the wind in our hair, the sun on our faces, and dozens of bugs smacking against our sunglasses lol. Our next stop: a small, remote beach about 20 minutes from the Shipwreck viewpoint.

As we sailed along the road, we passed numerous olive groves, wild cactus, and even pine trees! At one point, Ciara and I felt as though we were riding through Rocky Mountain National Park like we used to do when we both lived in Colorado Springs.

Before long, we were forced to slow down as we encroached upon a small village. Nearing the village’s main street, shop owners began coming out of the shade simply to wave at us—it was so welcoming! All sorts of different handmade trinkets and memorabilia lined the streets as we passed by the local establishments. Everything from handmade cutting boards crafted out of locally sourced olive wood to delicious jams and jellies was being sold here.

Wanting to press on to the beach, we took only enough time for a few photographs before pressing back down on the throttle and accelerating towards a sandy oasis.

3. Snorkel around Porto Vromi and Sfogio Beach

After taking instaworthy photos from the Navagio (Shipwreck) overlook and the local boutiques, Ciara and I found ourselves at Porto Vromi beach. The objective was simple: lounge on the secluded beach for a while, drink a cold cerveza, and maybe do a little snorkeling.

The road down to Porto Vromi beach was simply astonishing. With every twist in the road, Ciara and I were graced with another stunning view of the sea’s vastness and the majestic cliffs the comprised this little island. Parking the ATV, we made our way past the small little snack vendor and set up camp on a desolate beach; we had the whole thing to ourselves!

It wasn’t long before I threw on the snorkel gear and made my way into the sky-blue water. As I peered below me, I saw hundreds of fish ranging in size from the kind that could fit in your hand to the kind that you might take a photo with if you caught one lol.

I should point out: if you want world-class snorkeling, Porto Vromi beach isn’t the place. For that, I recommend the southern side of the island where the sea turtles are frequent. However, if you want a rather secluded beach with only a handful of visitors at any one time, this is a perfect spot.

Once we had had our fill of snorkeling around the cove, we noticed a small table with a sign advertising boats for rent. Naturally this piqued our interests, and we inquired at the counter about how it worked. Long story short, for about $100, you could rent a small speed boat for two hours and go anywhere you wanted.

I simply said, “Take my money” lol.

4. Rent a boat for a couple of hours!

With a crash course in how to drive a boat, we had keys in our hands, and we were trolling out of the Porto Vromi harbor. Destination: the shipwreck of course! Only about 10-15 minutes away by boat, we pressed north out of the Porto Vromi harbor towards Navagio Beach.

It was surreal to think that just a few hours ago, Ciara and I were only viewing this amazing treasure some four- to five-hundred feet in the air on the side of a cliff. But now we were up close and personal! Stopping for only 5-10 minutes, we took about a dozen photos before pulling out our newly acquired tourist map from the boat rental company to determine charter our next course.

From Porto Vromi beach where we departed, there were about ten main destinations they recommended with the Shipwreck being at the top. Having now knocked that one out, Ciara and I decided to continue our journey towards the other recommended beaches.

We had a fantastic routine: pull up to a small beach, drop anchor, put on the snorkeling gear, jump/backflip into the water, snorkel around on our way to the beach, lay on said beach, snorkel back to the boat, repeat.

If you’re looking for the most simple, repeatable objectives to reach a state of bliss, I wholeheartedly recommend it lol.

5. Enjoy dinner with the most amazing sunset view

Not wanting to bring the boat back but closing in on the end of our rental time (which we were already an hour over lol), we reluctantly made our way back to Porto Vromi beach. We docked the boat, strapped on our flipflops, and made our way back to the ATV.

Hopping on the fiery orange quad, we bid Porto Vromi beach one last farewell and made our way back up the steep incline bound for our Airbnb in Tsilivi. What I thought was an earthquake was just Ciara and my stomach growling because we realized we hadn’t eaten a major meal since breakfast; we were starving!

“Dinner?” I yelled back at her.

“Absolutely!” she responded.

I pointed to a sign that simply read, “Aeras Taverna”. received the head-nod from Ciara, and we pulled in to eat.

To say that we simply had dinner with a view would be like describing Notre Dame as another gothic church; it simply doesn’t do it justice.

For starters, Aeras Taverna has a large, banquet-hall design that runs parallel to a massive cliff overlooking the entire Porto Vromi beach area. Each set of seats are given an impeccable view thanks to the large floor to ceiling windowpanes facing west towards the sea. The best part? We got there right as the sun was beginning to set over the Ionian and Mediterranean seas.

Then came the food; hands down some of the best moussaka I had ever had. The secret ingredient? A dash of cinnamon. This one little addition created the most fantastic dynamic of a decadent, savory meal and a homemade Christmas dessert; a combination I never would have thought of but am so glad I experienced.

Ciara had the freshest Greek salad either of us had ever tasted as her meal. Not too heavy on the dressing, and the perfect amount of crisp from the lettuce to the onions to the tomatoes. Each olive tasted as though it had just been pulled from the tree just that morning, and the block of feta cheese was unbelievably creamy and smooth.

I’ll never forget looking into Ciara’s deep green eyes juxtaposed to the most beautiful contrast of the neon blue waters reflecting the warmth of the sun’s final rays as they bounced across the Ionian Sea before landing on her sun-kissed skin. The most perfect ending to the most perfect day.