I didn’t book a vacation to Vietnam because of the street food, culture, or exquisite coffee—much like everyone else who visits Vietnam does. I booked it because I knew that after my two-week military exercise in South Korea, I would be in need of a proper reward. The kind that involved mountains, adventure, picturesque landscapes, and—most importantly—a chance to finally travel after leaving my assignment in Europe 6 months prior. Ha Long Bay seemed like just the place to begin satisfying each of those needs.
I had been stationed in Korea from 2021-2022. Back then, COVID restrictions kept most of Asia tightly shut. So while the assignment came with high hopes of Asian explorations, I spent most weekends checking out the corners of South Korea most people have never even heard of. This time though, I wasn’t letting the opportunity slip by. I took advantage of my TDY to Korea and used it as a launch pad to Vietnam.
The grand plan? A four-day motorcycle tour through the northern mountains of Vietnam–the Ha Giang Loop. But with my motorcycle ride kicking off on Friday, and my military gig ending on a Monday, I had a few days to kill. So, I did what any impatient traveler with a backpack and a vague sense of direction would do—I winged it. To start: an overnight stay on a junk boat in Ha Long Bay.
From Seoul to Hanoi: Never Again
To say that starting off my trip to Vietnam was stressful would be a massive understatement. I showed up to Incheon Airport four hours before my flight. My fallacy was imagining I’d breeze through security, kick my feet up in a lounge, and download a few Netflix shows for the five-hour flight to Hanoi. Incheon had different plans for me though, as it always does…
Instead, I found myself drenched in sweat, sprinting through the terminal, and arriving at my gate with five minutes to spare. Not exactly the soft launch into vacation mode I had envisioned.
I’ll be honest: I’ve never once had an easy time leaving South Korea. Though I’ve only flown out of Incheon three times, each one has been uniquely miserable. Something about their departure procedures feels like a test of willpower—designed to break you down, one security checkpoint and flight attendant at a time. If there were a boat option to get off the peninsula, I might honestly take it just to avoid that airport ever again.
But you didn’t click on this blog to hear me rant about Incheon’s bureaucratic hellscape. You’re here for Vietnam, so let’s get (back) to it.
Touchdown in Hanoi
Upon landing at Noi Bai International Airport, I was shuttled to my hotel in the Old Quarter. I had read that the Vietnamese people love their fruit, so I wasn’t surprised when I was greeted with a delicious glass of watermelon juice as I checked in. How sweet it was–I had never tasted watermelon this sweet! As I laid down my luggage, I did a quick shirt change and hit the pavement. I wanted to wander the Old Quarter before the sunset.
It. was. sensory. overload!
The first impressions I got were similar to the ones I had when Ciara and I visited Marrakesh. It was as if someone took every sound, smell, and motorbike in the world and stuffed them into 10 square blocks. Chaotic sure, but in an enjoyable way.
Horns beep constantly, scooters zip past in every direction, and the sidewalks double as makeshift dining rooms for steaming bowls of phở. There’s no rhyme or reason to any of it, but somehow, it all just “works”.
My biggest fascination was that of the traffic. It’s chaotic in a way that’s kind of charming once you stop trying to fight it. The traffic moves like a school of fish—random, fluid, and somehow perfectly timed. Scooters fly past you on all sides, horns blaring, and if you’re not paying attention while crossing the street, you might end up becoming part of the road. Somehow though, nothing ever bumped into anything else!
I wandered the Old Quarter that night with no real plan, just soaking in the madness and getting good and lost. I grabbed a bahn mi from a vendor who toasted the bread over a charcoal grill propped on a plastic stool, gulped on a few Tiger beers, and watched life fly by from a tiny corner stool that barely supported my weight. The city felt alive, and after months of routine life back in California, that feeling was exactly what I needed.
A Night on Ha Long Bay
The next morning, I boarded a shuttle headed east toward Ha Long Bay—a place I’d only ever seen in photos but had always imagined as mystical. Thankfully, just like Ciara and I discovered in Marrakesh, GetYourGuide allowed me to book the entire Ha Long Bay trip with ease!
Don’t worry, I don’t get commission from any of this; I just recommend things I’ve done that I’ve enjoyed. If you want to do a pretty great overnight cruise through Ha Long Bay, I’d recommend this one here.
If Hanoi was a coffee-fueled fever dream, then Ha Long Bay was its peaceful older cousin—living on a houseboat and doing yoga at sunrise. I was excited to slow things down for a bit, breathe in some salty air, and spend the night drifting between limestone giants on the water.
A quick pearl heist
But first—because no tour in Vietnam is complete without at least one suspiciously convenient shopping detour—our tour made a pit stop at a local pearl factory. And to be fair, we did actually learn how pearls are made. It was fascinating for about 15 minutes. Then, right on cue, they funneled us through a giant pearl showroom that felt more like a jewelry Costco than an educational exhibit.
I’m pretty sure our tour guide gets a commission on anything with a shiny surface, but hey, we’ll pretend he was just passionate about marine biology and supporting local artisans. Either way, Ciara really loved her birthday present later that year… so I guess it all worked out 😉
Boarding the Floating Hotel in Ha Long Bay
Eventually, we pulled into the harbor where dozens of boats bobbed lazily in the water. Each ship had its own unique charm; some looking like they should’ve been retired years ago. Our group was ferried by a small skipper boat out to our real ride for the night: a classic wooden junk boat that would be our floating hotel.
The crew welcomed us aboard with drinks and cold towels, and after a quick safety briefing, we were shown to our rooms. Mine had big windows, polished floors, and even a private bathroom with a shower! It felt like luxury on the water, and I felt like royalty’s cousin twice removed from the mother’s side.
As the boat pulled away from the docks, the scenery quickly became otherworldly. Towering limestone islands jutted out of the water like ancient sentinels, and the emerald bay shimmered all around us.
I headed up to the top deck, drink in hand, and let the breeze erase any lingering stress from the long ride. For the first time in a few weeks, I was able to just be. It was a very welcomed break from all the recent hustle and bustle.
Ti Top Island in Ha Long Bay = The BEST views!
Our first stop was Ti Top Island in Ha Long Bay, a tiny crescent of sand with a steep viewpoint hike that promised a full panorama of the bay. Tourist crowds or not, I made the climb—and I’m glad I did. At the top, the view was unreal: green karsts rising out of turquoise water in every direction, the boats looking like toys far below. After soaking it in, I hiked back down for what I planned to be a quick swim in the sea before returning to the boat…
that was until I saw what was floating in the water…
Plastic bags, water bottles, styrofoam, pieces of things I couldn’t even guess; needless to say I opted out of swimming and remained on the beach with my toes in the sand. Other folks took the plunge in the rather brisk water, but I didn’t want to have to dodge trash while coming up for air. Call me high maintenance, but after snorkeling in Greece, I guess I have higher standards!
The Cave of Many Shapes
Next up was Sung Sot Cave, also known as Surprise Cave—and with good reason. From the outside, you’d never expect what’s inside: a vast, echoing cave with multi-colored lights illuminating all kinds of twisted formations.
Some rocks looked like dragons, others like Buddha… and a few, well, let’s just say the guide had a sense of humor and a pointer laser. It was surprisingly cool inside, a welcome break from the warm weather outside.
I couldn’t believe how amazing of a creation I was standing in. Normally I’m not a cave guy, but this place was so otherworldly that I couldn’t help but be amazed! Stalagtites and stalagmites surrounding me, I was reminded of the Passion Facade at the Basilica de la Família in Barcelona.
Everything just seemed to be slowly dripping and stacking on top of itself, creating a perfect design that can only be accomplished after thousands of years. In a way, much like Gaudi’s grand design in Barcelona, just a longer timeline.
As we reached the back of the cave, our tour guide reminded us that the name Ha Long Bay translates to rising dragon. As he said that, he pointed out an amazing curved rock formation that looked exactly like a dragons spine…yet it was on the ceiling!
It astonished me that something like this could even form, and had he not pointed it out, I would’ve walked right under it and missed it! It reminded me to take the time to slow down and appreciate the little things—something I often overlook when I’m taking landscape photos.
Sunset, Seafood, and Ha Long Bay Karaoke (Unfortunately)
Back on the boat, we cruised into a quiet corner of the bay for the night. The sun began to dip low, casting golden light across the water and painting the cliffs with a soft orange hue. Dinner wasn’t for another hour or so, so had some time to kill. So, I grabbed a beer and joined the rest of the passengers on the top deck. It’s taking in these kinds of peaceful moment that stick with you long after the trip ends.
Dinner that night was nothing short of sublime. The crew brought out fresh prawns, tender sea bass coated in a mustard-lemon-honey glaze, squid, steamed cabbage, crisp salads, and a few other dishes I can’t even remember. Everything was decadent! It felt like a feast prepared by someone’s grandma who just happened to be a master chef.
After dinner, our guide gathered everyone on the lower deck to teach us how to squid fish. Turns out, it’s harder than it looks. Despite our best efforts—and a lot of enthusiasm—no one in our group even landed a nibble. Still, being able to say you tried squid fishing in Vietnam is almost as cool as actually catching one… right?
Later that evening, I found a quiet moment up on the rooftop deck with a cigar in hand, Vietnamese beer in the other. In the distance, I could hear karaoke drifting from the other boats in the bay—off-key, a little chaotic, and oddly charming. It was the perfect end to a day full of surprises.
Kayaks, Monkeys, and One Last Look of Ha Long Bay
The next morning, I woke up early and headed to the deck with a coffee in hand to catch the sunrise. Mist curled around the cliffs, and the water was smooth like glass. It was so quiet that even the sound of the anchor chain rattling up felt poetic.
The tour guide joined me on the rooftop for a while and we chatted about some of his favorite spots in Vietnam. He said Ha Long bay had always been at the top of the list because of how peaceful it felt to him. Sitting there with such a serene backdrop and little to no noise, I could see exactly what he meant. Had I lived in Vietnam, I’m sure I would’ve arrived at the same conclusion.
After a quick breakfast, we had the option to be jammed into a rowboat, or take a kayak to explore a nearby lagoon. You can imagine which option I went with! Gliding through the water beneath limestone cliffs, I paddled into a hidden cove where monkeys were hopping from rock to rock along the shoreline.
They didn’t seem to mind us at all—just carried on with their jungle gymnastics like we weren’t even there. It was easily the most surreal moment of the whole trip.
We paddled back, checked out of our rooms, and by late morning, we were cruising back toward the harbor. It was over too quickly, but I was already buzzing for what came next: a four-day motorcycle adventure into Vietnam’s mountainous north.
And trust me, that story’s even better.
After visiting Ha Long Bay, I can promise you that the Ha Giang Loop goes through the most beautiful places in all of Vietnam. Click here to read that one.
In summary
I came to Vietnam with no real expectations—just a loosely sketched itinerary and a need to hit the reset button. And as far as first impressions go, Ha Long Bay absolutely stole the show. From cutting through the emerald waters on a kayak to cruising through limestone towers rising out of the mist, I knew this place was something special. Every moment felt like a gift I didn’t know I needed.
This wasn’t just another vacation like the dozens my fiancé Ciara and I took in Europe. Rather, it was the kind of travel experience that shakes loose all the routine, drops you into the deep end of somewhere entirely new, and reminds you how alive the world really is when you let it surprise you.
It’s wild to think this was just the beginning of my Vietnam adventure. But somewhere between a rooftop cigar over dark water and kayaking past curious monkeys at sunrise, I realized just how rare these kinds of moments are.
Vietnam gave me a chance to hit pause, explore, and reconnect with the part of myself that craves motion and meaning in equal measure. And for that—sweaty airport run and all—I’m deeply grateful.
Have you been to Ha Long Bay or are you dreaming about it? Drop a comment or question below—I love swapping stories with fellow travelers!
