Have you ever had a bucket list item so grand that you knowingly (or unknowingly) procrastinate accomplishing it? Maybe it’s because you like the idea of keeping it on your list, a beacon to drive you to explore other things until conditions are perfect. Or maybe it’s because you fear that once it’s checked off, nothing else will compare. For me, snowboarding in Chamonix was that elusive dream.
Back when I was a young second lieutenant stationed in Colorado (what an assignment, by the way), I stumbled upon an ad for Chamonix in France. A drone glided over a completely uncrowded chairlift as a skier descended toward the most rugged mountain range I’d ever seen. Instantly, I knew I had to experience that same thrill on a snowboard. And so, the seed was planted.
Fast forward to a crazy winter filled with TDYs in Lithuania and powder days in Kitzbuhel Austria, I found myself with no free weekends in sight. Chamonix remained a distant dream, always there but never within reach. But with abysmal snow conditions across Europe and a nagging voice in my head asking, “if not now, when?” I knew I hade no choice but to seize my next oportunity: burn a day of leave and head to the mountains for a “self-made” 3-day weekend.
Departing from Stuttgart, the journey to Chamonix loomed ahead like a challenge waiting to be conquered. The six-hour drive stretched before me, shrouded in rain and wind. Yet, despite the daunting conditions and a check engine light mocking my lack of preparation, I pressed on, determined to reach my destination.
As I ascended into the mountains, the rain turned to sleet, and finally, a heavy snowfall obscured the road ahead. White-knuckling the wheel of my AWD Subaru, I navigated the treacherous pass, inching closer to my ultimate goal. And when I finally arrived at my lodging, weary but exhilarated, I knew the journey had been worth every harrowing moment.
Riding in Chamonix
Les Grand Montets
I didn’t do much research on where to find the ski resorts in Chamonix. All I knew was that this was some of the most incredible terrain in the French Alps. So, the following morning, as I sipped my coffee, I quickly scanned my options and settled on Les Grand Montets for my first day of riding. Seeing that I was only a few minutes’ drive from the parking lot (which is free I might add), I decided to skip the ski bus and drive myself.
My quick research told me that this mountain is known for its challenging terrain and high-altitude skiing. With its vast expanse of high-alpine terrain and legendary off-piste routes, Les Grand Montets would offer some of the most challenging skiing in the region. Steep couloirs, wide-open powder fields, glacier skiing; apparently I had found the perfect playground for an adrenaline rush!
My anticipation couldn’t have been higher. I mean how could it?! I was literally acting out the dreams that were playing out in my head for over 7 years! As I made my way down the bumpy one-way road into the parking lot, my smile grew even bigger as I noticed the lack of other skiers and riders. Then it hit me: SATURDAY IS TURNOVER DAY! It’s the day that most families pack up to head home! So, that should mean that I would have the whole mountain to myself; perfect!
From the moment I stepped off the gondola, I was greeted by breathtaking views of towering peaks and pristine powder fields. Remember that wicked snowstorm the night prior? Well, it was time to reap those rewards! The terrain was steep and unforgiving with narrow couloirs, rocky outcrops, and deep snowdrifts waiting to test my skills. I stepped into my bindings and yelled, “SEND IT”!
Lap after lap, as I silently floated above the earth on a foot of powder, I experienced levels of exhilaration I hadn’t found anywhere else in the Alps. I’ve ridden Solden in Austria, the Sellaronda in the Dolomites, and both the Swiss and Austrian slopes at Ischgl, but none of them can compare to what I experienced at Les Grand Montets.
Before long, my legs were absolutely smoked, and I was in serious need of a break. So, after I had my fill of adrenaline, I unstrapped and relaxed in my stunning surroundings, drinking a French beer from one of the cozy on-mountain restaurants. The combo of hearty Alpine cuisine, panoramic views, and beer on tap was the perfect way to refuel before heading back out for more runs.
I didn’t want the day to end. I wished that I could’ve stayed on that mountain for the rest of my life. It’s strange how paradoxical snowboarding can be for me: on one hand, I’m the happiest version of myself, and on the other is dread. First, I’m in the mountains, breathing fresh, crisp air while soaking in panorama views as my body does exactly what I believe it was built to do, and then the next moment I’m dreading the moment it all has to end. But that’s life, right?
As the sun began to set and cast its golden glow over the snow-capped peaks, I simply came to a nice heel side stop, plopped on my butt, and marveled at the beauty that surrounded me. The jagged cliffs, the towering pines, the crisp mountain air – I was sitting in that scene on that a postcard somewhere in those tourist stores down below me. I cruised my way down to the bottom, got in my car, and drove back to my hotel. After having a few beers at Big Mountain Chamonix in town, I took the public bus home and promptly passed out from exhaustion lol.
La Flégère and Le Brévent
As morning broke and the hotel I was in began buzzing with excitement, I quickly got dressed and headed downstairs for breakfast. Sipping my coffee and doing another day-of planning session, I settled on heading to La Flégère and Le Brévent.
Situated on the sunny side of the valley, La Flégère and Le Brévent promised a more relaxed skiing experience with plenty of intermediate and beginner-friendly runs. After a day of getting smoked at Les Grand Montets, let’s just say I was ready for a chill day. From gentle slopes to scenic tree-lined trails, the area seemed ideal for families and those looking for a more leisurely day on the mountain. I finished my croissant, walked up to the bus stop, and was bound for La Flégère in no time.
Note: La Flégère and Le Brévent are essentially the same mountain but divided down the middle. I chose to start at La Flégère but, either choice is the right choice; the terrain is amazing on both. Additionally, a cable car connects the two, so you can bounce in between them on the same day-pass.
As I made my way up La Flégère, I was again struck by the stunning scenery that surrounded me. While I had a few more clouds than my bluebell day yesterday, they all seemed to be hovering around the massive Mount Blanc on the opposite side of the valley. The towering peaks ahead of me were lined with snow-covered trees, and the crystal-clear blue skies stretched out as far as the eye could see. I knew I was going to have a truly magical setting for a day on the slopes.
The terrain did not disappoint! I was a tad nervous that it was going to be “too easy” for me but, I was happily mistaken. From gentle groomed runs to steep couloirs and challenging off-piste routes, La Flégère and Le Brévent had something for everyone. Though I wasn’t carving through fresh powder like I was yesterday at Les Grand Montets, I was still getting my heart rate up by flying down the immaculately groomed slopes accompanied by breathtaking views at every turn.
About halfway through the morning, the staff opened up the Floria T-bar that takes riders/skiers to one of harder to reach areas. This quickly turned out to be my most favorite run of the day! From here, I was able to ride uninterrupted from the top of La Flégère all the way to the bottom; an amazing 5-7-minute ride!
But it wasn’t just the skiing that made this resort special; it was the overall experience. After a morning of shredding the slopes, I would stop at one of the on-mountain restaurants for a hearty meal and beer while soaking in the sunshine and enjoying the company of fellow skiers and snowboarders.
After a quick lunch, I took the Liaison gondola to the other side of the mountain and toured Le Brévent until my quads begged me to call it a day. I made my way to the on-mountain restaurant and found a secluded seat.
As I sat in a beach lounger at the base of La Flégère on my final day, I gazed at Mont Blanc and its majestic peaks towering above me. The crisp mountain air was filling my lungs as I reflected on the journey that had brought me here, and suddenly my eyes began to tear up. In that moment, amidst the beauty of nature’s masterpiece, I felt a stirring within me; a desire to connect with God.
With a sense of reverence, I simply lifted my head and whispered the most simple but powerful prayer I’d uttered in months. “Thanks for not giving up on me.” In that moment of quiet gratitude, surrounded by the awe-inspiring beauty of His creation, I felt a profound sense of peace wash over me. I wanted to bathe in it for eternity. It felt as thou my dad responded and said, “it’s going to be ok”; something I desperately needed to hear in that moment I guess, because my burden felt instantly lighter.
I’d even go as far to say that the mountains themselves echoed His sentiment, whispering back their own silent reassurance that God was with me and had been with me all along.
Après Ski in Chamonix
I’d be remorse if I didn’t elaborate on Chamonix’s après-ski scene. Whether you prefer sipping hot cocoa by a roaring fire or dancing the night away at a lively bar, Chamonix really did offer something for everyone. Personally, I spent my evenings drinking amazing craft beer at Big Mountain Chamonix while swapping stories with fellow riders.
As we shared tales of epic runs and near-misses on the mountains we’d ridden thus far (figuratively and literally) I realized that these moments of camaraderie are what make Chamonix truly special. Also, surprisingly, the English language is extremely common in Chamonix! So, I had no problem chatting it up with fellow adventure junkies!
As for food, look no further than The Dainty Pizza. Great staff, great flavor, good beer, and amazing company are what make a place special to me, and this place had it all! Swing by early to get a good seat!
In conclusion
In retrospect, my whirlwind adventure in Chamonix was nothing short of a dream come true. While I may not have conquered every slope or explored every nook and cranny of this alpine paradise, the experiences I did have were nothing short of extraordinary. From the adrenaline-pumping powder day at Les Grand Montets to the exhilarating groomers at La Flégère and Le Brévent, each moment was filled with a sense of pure joy and exhilaration. I’ll never forget those picturesque views of Mont Blanc, framed by perfectly blue skies and bathed in sunlight, creating a scene straight out of a postcard.
And even when the sun dipped below the horizon, the apres-ski vibes at Big Mountain Chamonix provided the perfect backdrop to unwind and relive the day’s adventures over some amazing craft beer. Surrounded by fellow enthusiasts and the lively atmosphere of Chamonix, every sip was a toast to the memories made and the dreams fulfilled.
Though my time in Chamonix may have been brief, my memories will never die. From the heart-pounding descents to the moments of serenity amidst nature’s grandeur, each experience added to the tapestry of my adventures. I hope when you read this, you’re inspired to visit Chamonix, or any part of the Alps really. They’re the most magical place on this earth, I truely believe that. And, if you’re lucky, you might even have a mountain-top experience with your creator like I did. Either way, you’re guaranteed to be in good company!
