It’s extremely easy to Google “temples near me” while living in South Korea and end up in a tranquil place within minutes–even without a car! But, with so many temples to choose from, you can quickly become inundated by the sheer amount that are available for visiting on the Korean peninsula.
That’s where this post aims to help–Donghwasa Temple is an amazing destination for some peace, solidarity, and epic temple photos. It’s about an hour away from Osan Air Base/Camp Humphreys via the SRT (i.e. bullet train) from Jije station. Check out this amazing temple for a wonderful submersion into South Korea’s history, Buddhist traditions, and heritage!
Now, this temple is a bit of a distance from Osan Air Base in that it’s much closer to Camp Walker in Daegu but, I promise it’s worth it! Donghwasa is truly the best temple I’ve ever experienced thanks to the monk prayer session I stumbled upon, the waterfalls I listened to, and the grounding I experienced as I meditated in the river flowing through the grounds.
To get to Donghwasa from Osan, park at the Jije SRT station and buy a ticket for Daegu. When you get off the SRT at Daegu, head towards exit five in the terminal, go down the stairs, and under the bridge is a bus stop (Dongdaegu Station Underpass 2 to be exact) where you’ll catch the red express bus for 19 stops before arriving at Donghwasa Temple–it’s that easy to get here!
As you exit the bus, begin the march up the rather steep hill to the massive One Pillar Gate. The One Pillar Gate is common in Korean Buddhist temples and it establishes the sacred area from the secular one. Here, you’ll encounter the Four Heavenly Kings in much, much larger forms than the Mangisa Temple’s. As you sneak past them (and after you pay an entrance fee of a few thousand Won), you’ll begin down a large tunnel that will spit you out in front of this amazing oasis fed by mountain stream water.
I encourage you to walk around to the north end of this pond where the water feeds into it. Pause at the bridge over the inlet and rest in the shade for a moment. Listen to the brook and let it hypnotize you into a state of relaxation. Then walk along the boardwalk around the perimeter; it definitely helped me shake off some of the tension from the train and the bus ride and I think it would do the exact same for you.
Continuing on, you can either hike into the national forest to the north, or continue on to Donghwasa Temple–the choice is yours! Being that I was there on a Sunday, a day of rest, I chose to relax and take my time admiring the temple rather than bagging a mountain hike.
The first thing one notices upon entering the grounds is the amazing scenery in which this temple is situated. If you pause here, pay attention to the the mountains and valleys all around you that harness the gentle breezes coursing through the air. Listen closely and you can hear the sound of running water just beyond the pagodas in front of you. You’ll also get to cross over the river on your way to the temple if you want! Take your time in this part of the campus as you admire the beautiful colors adorning the facades of the pagodas and the main hall.
When you’re done wandering this portion of Donghwasa, follow your ears and make your way towards the sound of falling water. As you do, you’ll step down towards a road that leads along a beautiful river full of waterfalls–simply incredible! Feel free to stop at each one and let your gaze go long as you focus on the sound of each waterfall, there’s no rush after all!
When you’re ready, continue along the road until you see the sign pointing in the direction of the Main Hall. As you follow it, you’ll go up about 2 or 3 flights of stairs until you reach the pinnacle of the Donghwasa and why you made the journey out here in the first place: the massive Main Hall and the Buddha statue.
I was extremely lucky when I visited Donghwasa as it was a Sunday and the monks were leading prayer for some 200 people. The sounds of monks chanting sacred prayers into the wind that was rolling off of the green mountainside in the presence of a massive Buddhist statue is something I’ll never forget, and it’s a moment I’ll always be thankful for.
Feeling as if I needed to “do as the Romans do” and join in on the meditation, I chose to continue back on the road along the river, searching for a rock to rest on for some solitude. Within a few hundred feet, I found a small, flat rock just beyond a small drop in the middle of the river that looked perfect for a spot to rest.
I took off my shoes (and sweaty socks), waded into the cold water, and promptly sat down in utter awe of my experience. I was grounded, and I was appreciative. I couldn’t believe I was experiencing what I had and I couldn’t help but grow a massive grin on my face as I realized just how blessed I truely am.
If you choose to go inside any of the halls to pray, remember to pay your respects by taking off your shoes off and respecting the purpose of the temple: a place to worship.
The Donghwas Temple is one of three easily-accessible temples should you be stationed at Osan Air Base or Camp Humphreys–check out the other two here!
Have fun exploring and if you find any other temples worth visiting, please comment below and let me know! Thanks for reading!