Hut to hut hiking in Switzerland was undoubtedly the highlight of my time stationed in Germany. The best part was that I had no prior experience with this type of hike, so I truly had no idea what to expect! Yet, the adventure went flawlessly, and I would do it all over again in a heartbeat. To say it was tough, rewarding, and even life-changing would be an understatement.
However, planning this adventure required quite a bit of preparation, and I spent hours mapping out the details to ensure it would be a success. That’s why I decided to draft this blog post: in hopes of making life a bit easier for anyone interested in a hut-to-hut hike across Switzerland or even just a memorable hike through the Swiss Alps.
So, if you’re ready to embark on a hut-to-hut hike but don’t know where to begin, read on! Or, if you’re simply seeking an incredible hiking experience in Switzerland, this guide is for you too.
Why Choose Hut-to-Hut Hiking in Switzerland
Hiking in Switzerland is widely popular on social media—and for good reason. Imagine slate-gray, translucent rivers winding through charming villages nestled in stunning mountain valleys, with cowbells and cascading waterfalls filling the air. Hiking in Switzerland feels like stepping into a fairytale.
Now, amplify that feeling by a thousand—that’s what hut-to-hut hiking in Switzerland is like. It’s waking up to sunrises and unwinding to sunsets from the top of Europe. It’s wandering above the tree line to the sound of glaciers cracking like thunder. It’s savoring a different beer at a new table each night with people from around the world. Simply put, hut-to-hut hiking in Switzerland offers an unmatched way to experience one of the most breathtaking mountain ranges on Earth.
When to Go Hut-to-Hut Hiking in Switzerland
The best time for a hut-to-hut hike is undeniably summer. Not only do you get optimal weather, but most of the huts close during winter. I did my hike in September, and the conditions, terrain, and prices were perfect. Avoid hiking too early in the season, as lingering snow may require extra gear and could lead to trail closures at higher elevations.
The Best Area for Hut-to-Hut Hiking in Switzerland
For first-timers, I highly recommend following the itinerary I detail below. This route promises an unforgettable, stress-free adventure. Not only will you journey through some of the highest peaks in the Alps, but you’ll also end at the iconic Oeschinensee Lake, one of Switzerland’s most picturesque spots. You’ll have enough stunning photos to fill your Instagram feed for months—I guarantee it!
This hike centers around the Jungfrau Region—arguably the most scenic part of the Swiss Alps. It begins with a scenic train ride from Wilderswil to Schynige Platte, takes you past the serene Bachalpsee (Bachsee) above Grindelwald, over the stunning Kleine Scheidegg ridge, through the iconic towns of Wengen, Lauterbrunnen, and Mürren, and finally, across the rugged Sefinafurgga pass to the Blüemlisalphütte, where you’ll rest above the renowned Oeschinensee Lake.
Sound like an unforgettable adventure? Then read on for a detailed breakdown of my epic 6-day hut-to-hut hike across Switzerland.
Day 0 – Get to Wilderswil
Leaving Stuttgart on a crisp Friday afternoon, I opted for an alternative route down to Switzerland. Instead of taking a train or car, I rode my motorcycle. The feeling of riding through winding Alpine roads was liberating, and the journey itself became a prelude to the six days of hut to hut hiking in Switzerland that awaited me. After an incredible day of riding through the Alps, I reached the quaint town of Wilderswil.
Here, I stayed at the Gasthof Hirschen in Wilderswil—a choice I can’t recommend enough. It wasn’t just the rooms or the location; it was the kindness of the owner that stood out. When I casually mentioned my hiking plans, he generously offered to keep my motorcycle in his garage for the entire duration of my hike, free of charge. In Switzerland, where parking can easily set you back $100 or more, this gesture was a welcomed relief and a positive start to my adventure.
Day 1: Schynige Platte to Berghotel Faulhorn
Starting with a Scenic Train Ride
After a refreshing night’s rest and a hearty breakfast at Gasthof Hirschen, I set off to the Wilderswil train station to catch the scenic train to Schynige Platte. The train journey itself is an experience not to be missed.
Pro tip: When boarding, face the direction of travel with your back to the left side (if looking from the station building). The hour-long ride is steep, and sitting on the recommended side rewards you with breathtaking valley views while saving your back from an awkward slant.
When I finally arrived at Schynige Platte, it felt like stepping into a painting. The panoramic vistas stretching across the Bernese Alps made it hard to believe this place was real. From here, I could glimpse almost every major point of my upcoming six-day adventure. After drinking in the scenery for a solid half-hour, I started on my first leg of the journey.
Hiking Through History and Stunning Landscapes
The path began east along the Eiger Ultra Trail, with perfect weather nonetheless. Nothing beats sunny and a comfortable 75 degrees. Just as I got into a rhythm, a sign caught my eye. I discovered that the trail crossed the highest and oldest pasture in the Swiss Alps. This added another layer of significance to each step I took.
As beautiful as the trail was, it quickly became clear that hut to hut hiking in Switzerland would be no easy feat. My lungs felt fine, but my legs were in open rebellion. By the time I reached Berghütte Männdlenen, roughly three hours in, I was already feeling the burn. Still, I was making good time.
And, with only an hour left to go, I decided to indulge in my first halfway treat—a cold pilsner. Little did I know, this would become a beloved daily ritual throughout my hike.
Arriving at Berghotel Faulhorn
After pressing on for the final hour, I arrived at Berghotel Faulhorn around 5 p.m.. My legs were begging for relief and I was drenched in sweat! I stumbled up to the counter, received my key, and headed to my room.
I was welcomed to a quaint space with creaky, slanted wooden floors and an old-fashioned wash basin. It felt like stepping back in time, and while it wasn’t a hot shower, the basin offered just the refreshment I needed.
At 6 p.m., I made my way to the dining room, where I was greeted with a surprisingly luxurious three-course meal. The dinner included a warm bowl of soup with bread, a hearty serving of homemade mac and cheese, and a piece of apple pie to top it off.
It was far beyond what I expected to find at this altitude, proving that hut to hut hiking in Switzerland was just as much about discovering mountain hospitality as it was about tackling the trails.
A Perfect Evening with an Epic Light Show
The day ended on a high note. After dinner, I slipped into my cozy clothes and found a quiet spot on the outskirts of the property to enjoy a cigar. As I looked out over Eiger and Jungfrau mountains in the distance, clouds started rolling in, accompanied by a lightning show.
It was the perfect end to my first day—a day that balanced physical challenge, breathtaking views, and small pleasures. Tomorrow would bring new adventures and a forecast full of rain; one I was not mentally prepared for.
Day 2 – Berghotel Faulhorn to Glecksteinhütte SAC
I awoke in the middle of the night to an incredible display of lighting, thunder, and torrential rainfall. While I felt extremely cozy under my three layers of blankets, I couldn’t help but think of how difficult my hike was going to be in just a few short hours.
Daylight poured into my room around 6 am, accompanied by sheets of rain and dense fog.
“Great…today’s going to be fun” I thought.
Starting Off in the Rain
After a simple breakfast of muesli, bread, and coffee at Berghotel Faulhorn, I packed up and stepped outside by 9 a.m. The rain was still falling in waves, but with all my gear secured in ziplock bags, I felt prepared for the wet conditions.
To be honest, part of me was even a little excited. I figured the rain would offer a fresh challenge after yesterday’s heat. Little did I know this day would push my limits like no hike ever had before.
As I descended from Berghotel Faulhorn, the rain eased a little, and the clouds momentarily parted. I had just reached Bachalpsee, so this clearing was providing a brief window to admire its reflective waters against the moody backdrop.
Knowing how rare this break in the clouds would be, I snapped a few photos, grateful for the chance to see this iconic alpine sight. However, as soon as I continued onward, the fog thickened dramatically, reducing my visibility to just 15-20 feet…
…for the next nine hours.
A Grueling Mental Challenge
The endless fog made this the most mentally taxing day of the entire hike. Hour after hour, my surroundings were reduced to the trail beneath my feet and a relentless gray haze. Gone were the sweeping vistas of the Swiss Alps I envisioned, replaced by a monotonous landscape and my own swirling thoughts. I couldn’t help but feel cheated, like I missing out on the breathtaking views I had come so far to experience. FOMO, anyone?
If that wasn’t enough, every inch of me was unbelievably drenched. The fog was so dense it seemed to defy my waterproof gear, slowly permeating through every layer until it reached my skin. To add to the misery, most of the day’s route was downhill, which took a toll on my knees and lower back. I found myself silently wishing for some uphill stretches to break up the monotony, but the trail offered no relief until the final push.
The Final Climb to Glecksteinhütte and a Close Encounter
After hours of trudging downhill in near-zero visibility, I reached the base of the mountain where the Glecksteinhütte sat perched above. My wish for an uphill stretch was finally answered in the most intense way.
For the next two to three hours, I faced one of the steepest climbs I had ever encountered. In fact, a sign even warned me that only confident hikers should continue. As I pushed upward, the fog thickened around me, making the climb even more arduous, and dare I say dangerous.
I’m not proud of it, but I’ll admit that I complained my way through the entire day. I could only imagine how beautiful the landscapes around me were, but I’d never know. But then, just as I was nearing my destination, something incredible happened.
Just as I was about half a mile from my destination, I spotted the most iconic view in all the Alps—a silhouette of some rather massive, curved horns.
“Is that an Ibex” I thought?
I made some small noises with my feet to see if it would move; nothing.
“It must be a statue or something–it’s not moving” I said out loud.
As soon as the words left my mouth, the curved, silhouetted horns turned sharply and were now pointing directly at me. I froze.
“Holy cow–it’s a massive Ibex” I thought!
I pulled out my camera and tried my best to take a few photos, but the fog was just too dense. Realizing he was not far off the path, I continued on my trail and got within about 20 yards of the magnificent creature. I had never been so close to one in my life!
Arriving at Glecksteinhütte and Finding Comfort
After 30 more minutes of hiking, I finally arrived at Glecksteinhütte. Tired, drained, soaked, and beaten, I slumped up to the front doors of the hut. I was ready to get out of these wet clothes and rest.
As I checked in with the front staff, she told me that for 5 euros, I could take a hot shower upstairs. I happily paid extra, and 15 minutes later I was melting as the warm water poured over my body like mana from heaven.
Dry and in fresh clothes, I went downstairs and joined a small group of fellow hikers in the common area. We shared our experiences from the day while bonding over our mutual hatred of fog–and a pilsner of course! I met two friends from Germany, a Dutch couple, and even a hiker from New York. Despite the challenging conditions, we found solace in each other’s stories and clinked our glasses of frosty beverages.
An Unexpected Gift to End the Day
Just as dinner was being served, I glanced outside and saw an ibex near the hut. I rushed outside and, to my amazement, saw several more had joined him. The staff explained that they sprinkled salt on the nearby rocks, which attracts the ibexes from the mountains.
I spent the next hour snapping dozens of photos of these magnificent creatures, grateful for an ending that made up for the day’s hardships. It was a perfect reminder of why hut to hut hiking in Switzerland is worth every step.
Day 3 – Glecksteinhütte to Berghaus Bäregg
At some point during the night, the fog settled in the the Grindelwald valley below Glecksteinhütte, revealing the stunning landscape I had missed the day before. As I woke up and went outside, just behind the hut I saw a massive glacier—the largest I had ever seen!
The glacier’s expanse stretched across the mountainside, its surface gleaming under the soft morning light. Cracks and crevices ran like veins along its face, hinting at the incredible forces shaping it over millennia.
As I reflected on my hike yesterday, I remembered mistaking the rumbling sounds I kept hearing for thunder. However, I later realized it was the sound of the glacier breaking off in massive chunks—a remarkable and unique experience.
With my gear packed and a simple breakfast of muesli, toast, and coffee finished, I felt ready to take on the day. I felt like I had finally gotten the hang of hut to hut hiking in Switzerland. Determined to keep a positive mindset after yesterday’s struggles, I reminded myself to appreciate this journey for what it was—a unique opportunity. Fortunately, today’s hike was set to be the easiest of the entire week, and I was ready to enjoy it.
A Scenic Descent and Midway Break
Descending from Glecksteinhütte was sublime, especially after I pierced through the lingering clouds in the valley. The entire trail provided sweeping views of Grindelwald far below, making it almost surreal to skirt around such a charming town without actually visiting it.
Usually, I make it a point to stop in mountain towns like Grindelwald, but this time I was far too immersed in my hu -to hut hike through Switzerland to break my stride.
Unlike the grueling descent from the day before, today’s hike offered a pleasant balance of inclines, descents, and flat stretches. This definitely gave my sore knees and back a much-needed break. The path was well-maintained and gave me just enough challenge to keep it interesting.
The highlight of the day came when I reached the Pfingstegg gondola station. I upheld my self-imposed tradition and treated myself to a pint of hefeweizen. Nursing it, I felt a sense of satisfaction as I sat among tourists who had rode the gondola up just for the views.
I couldn’t help but feel proud of myself, knowing I had earned my place there through hard work and perseverance. There’s something gratifying about being the one covered in sweat, mud on my boots, and a 40-pound rucksack on my back, while everyone else was clean and relaxed. I was hut to hut hiking in Switzerland while they were simply enjoying one moment.
Crossing Glacier Canyon and Reaching Berghaus Bäregg
With the hefeweizen weighing down my pack, I pressed on toward Berghaus Bäregg. A real thrill was crossing the Glacier Canyon, which was formed by the now-retreated lower Grindelwald glacier.
Hiking along its edge made me feel both small and in awe of the immense power of nature. The canyon’s sheer walls were a reminder of how time and natural forces can shape a landscape over centuries.
After an hour and a half of hiking, I reached Berghaus Bäregg. Fog was rolling in again, but I didn’t mind this time—I had already made it to my destination. I mosey’d up to the check-in counter, relieved to be done for the day.
The attendant informed me that there wasn’t a lot of people tonight, so I’d have an entire room to myself. I couldn’t have been happier! Putting on my comfy Crocs, I headed up to my room, eager to settle in.
Unwinding at Berghaus Bäregg
After a quick rinse in the sink—a “sponge bath” of sorts—I made my way downstairs for my customary pre-dinner beer. I struck up a conversation with two friends originally from L.A. but now living in Zurich. They were taking advantage of a day off to visit the mountains, and chose to stay the night at the hut.
I was appreciative of how, despite our different backgrounds, we were all drawn to the same adventure. We spent the evening sharing travel stories and life experiences, finding common ground in our love for exploring new places.
As the evening wound down, I couldn’t help but reflect on how each day of this journey seemed to end with unexpected connections and rewarding moments. It was another perfect close to an even better day, and I was starting to see the beauty of embracing every step—rain or shine.
Day 4 – Berghaus Bäregg to Wengen
Day four of my hut to hut hike in Switzerland started with a unique experience—a front-row seat to an airlift operation! Given that I’m currently stationed at Travis AFB in an Air Mobility Operations Squadron, witnessing this felt like a premonition of sorts.
As I began my descent from Berghaus Bäregg, I heard the low rumble of an approaching helicopter echoing through the mountains. Within moments, it appeared, hovering only about a hundred feet above the hut.
The crew efficiently dropped off supplies and hooked up the waste to be flown back down into town. It was incredible to watch this up close, especially knowing the precision and coordination involved. The more I moved along during my hut to hut hiking in Switzerland, the more I saw these amazing operations.
I felt a rush of excitement as I set out on today’s journey because, just a few weeks ago, Ciara and I had been exploring the same area. The plan was to hop off the Eiger Ultra trail and follow the Via Alpina. This would take me up and over the Kleine Scheidegg mesa before finishing in the charming town of Wengen.
Good to know: The Via Alpina is a long-distance hiking trail network that crosses the Alps, connecting eight different countries. In Switzerland, it’s known for providing access to some of the most iconic peaks and valleys, offering breathtaking views and well-maintained paths.
A Grueling Ascent with Stunning Rewards
While the plan seemed straightforward, this hike turned out to be a real juggernaut. Where the previous days had been decline-heavy, today was a long, steady uphill climb for many miles. However, the route traversed some of the most iconic peaks in Switzerland, so the stunning scenery more than made up for the physical challenge.
As I ascended the Kleine Scheidegg mesa, the views of Grindelwald became even more captivating with each step. I had been circling this quiet town for days, and finally, from this vantage point, I was able to appreciate its beauty from another perspective.
After two days of fog and rain, I was blessed to have a cloudless sky. Yet, as the sun climbed higher, I found myself almost wishing for a few clouds to shield me from the relentless heat. Climbing that long incline under the blazing sun turned out to be just as tough mentally as it was physically.
About an hour from the summit, my knees and back were screaming at me, and I started doubting if I could manage the steep descent down. I decided then and there that I’d take the train down—a choice I’d make again to this day.
A Moment of Rest and Reflection
Reaching the summit at Kleine Scheidegg, I was drenched in sweat and in desperate need of a break. I found a bench, sat down, and treated myself to a cold hefeweizen. You’re seeing a pattern by now I hope. From this spot, the views were unparalleled: Grindelwald stretched out beneath me on one side, while the iconic Lauterbrunnen valley awaited on the other.
Taking in these views, I reflected on everything that had brought me to this point. I gave thanks to my body for enduring the physical strain, to my mind for keeping me organized and focused, and to God for creating such breathtaking landscapes for all of us to experience.
Feeling grateful and re-energized, I wandered toward a tourist shop near the train station where a “Summer Sale” sign caught my eye. Seeing a pair of hiking poles marked down to half-price, I grabbed them without a second thought. In hindsight, this decision was a game-changer. I believe there’s life before hiking poles and life after, and let me tell you, life after is much, much easier.
A Comfortable Descent to Wengen
Being that I had no idea how to use these hiking poles, I continued with my plan of taking the train down to Wengen. With my new hiking poles securely stashed in my rucksack, I purchased a one-way train ticket to Wengen and rode down the mountain in comfort.
This was the only time during my entire hut to hut hike in Switzerland that I splurged on a hotel, but it was worth every penny. After days of shared bunk rooms and basic amenities, it felt like luxury to take a hot shower and stretch out on a queen-size bed.
Sipping a beer and watching European sports, I reveled in the simple joy of not having to listen to the snores of 20 other hikers. It was the perfect ending to another incredible day on this unforgettable journey.
Day 5 – Wengen to Rotstockhütte
I had two choices to begin my hike from Wengen: hike the entire way down or take a train from Wengen to Lauterbrunnen. Since I still wasn’t feeling 100% thanks to a very sore and beat-up body, I decided to take the train to save my knees. However, today was the first day I was going to try out hiking poles, and I was stoked to see how it would improve my pace and endurance.
Long story short: I don’t know how I survived the last few days without hiking poles! These things were such an answered prayer, and I abused the heck out of them for the rest of my hut to hut hike in Switzerland. If you’re going to do hut to hut hiking in Switzerland, you’re going to need a pair of hiking poles–trust me!
Exploring Lauterbrunnen and Meeting Fellow Hikers
As my train pulled into Lauterbrunnen, I checked my weather app and referenced my planned route, figuring I had a few minutes to spare before the afternoon storm would hit. I wandered through town and took a moment to admire the Staubbachfall Waterfall.
Good to know: Staubbachfall is one of the tallest free-falling waterfalls in Europe, cascading over 1,000 feet from a sheer cliff into the Lauterbrunnen Valley below. The sight of the water gracefully plummeting into the valley is nothing short of mesmerizing, especially against the stunning backdrop of alpine peaks.
After snapping a few photos, I began my hike toward Mürren and eventually the Rotstockhütte. The first part of the hike came with extreme elevation gain (big surprise, I know), but my hiking poles enabled me to move at a pace I never could have without them. Once the incline was conquered, the trail leveled out for many miles.
While taking in the scenery along the trail, I was approached by a guy who commented on how beautiful the surroundings were. I eagerly agreed–I mean it’s the Swiss Alps!
He mentioned that he and his father were also hiking to the Rotstockhütte—the same place I was headed. We sat and chatted for a while before I decided to continue, but not before I told him I’d save a spot (and a beer) at the dinner table tonight.
A Mid-Hike Break in Mürren
The weather was perfect as I strolled along the ridgeline overlooking the Lauterbrunnen valley. Before long, I reached Mürren, another charming alpine town in the Swiss Alps. Tired but not exhausted, I removed my rucksack and sat down at Hotel Eiger Mürren for a mid-hike beer.
The foam on my beer seemed to mirror the glaciers on the massive Alps around me—easily the most memorable beer of the day. Rested and with a slight buzz, I pressed on toward the Rotstockhütte.
I was in for a real treat for the remainder of the hike because there wasn’t much more incline, rather just distance. Knowing this, I took advantage of every opportunity to take lots of photos of the beauty all around me.
One of the things I love about hut to hut hiking in Switzerland are the random biergartens high above the tree line. This part of my hike highlighted that feature beautifully as I passed a quaint family farm in Spilboden (which you won’t find on the map!) selling fresh cheese, yogurt, eggs, dried meats, and beer. Although tempted, I decided to keep moving and save the next beer for the Rotstockhütte.
Arriving at Rotstockhütte
The terrain was so favorable on this day that I finished the hike in really good time. I arrived at Rotstockhütte with about two hours to spare before dinner. So, as soon as I reached the hut, I bought a beer, sat outside facing the mountains, and lit up a cigar. I was in heaven.
And before long, my acquaintance from earlier arrived with his father. They were in good spirits, so we all sat together and chatted while enjoying a frosty beverage.
The more we chatted, I learned that this guy was a Captain in the Belgian Army! We shared stories of working with NATO and how it can be both a headache and an amazing experience at the same time. Soon after, the dinner bell rang, and we made our way inside for a delicious meal of salad, pasta, and homemade cake.
The stars were out in force that night, revealing constellations I hadn’t seen in years due to city living. I spent the rest of the evening socializing with travelers who were all in some phase of hiking the Via Alpina. Though we hailed from different corners of the globe, we shared one thing in common: we were all globetrotters.
Day 6 – Rotstockhütte to Blüemlisalphütte
With only two days left in my hut-to-hut hike in Switzerland, I weirdly began mourning the end of the adventure well before it was over. Although my body craved rest after hiking for over eight hours each day, my spirit remained white-hot with the desire for exploration. I couldn’t wait to discover what lay beyond the next ridge or within the next valley.
The Journey Begins with Advice
Despite feeling a tinge of sadness knowing this would be the last full day of hiking, my excitement quickly took over as I laced up my hiking boots and secured my rucksack. During breakfast, I had the chance to chat with a few hikers who had just come from Blüemlisalphütte doing some hut to hut hiking in Switzerland as well.
They suggested that I deviate from the Via Alpina and visit the Gspaltenhornhütte for its sweeping views of the glaciers and the valley below. Moreover, they mentioned that this route would be easier on my knees, as it would save me from a steep descent. Naturally, I heeded their advice and stepped out the door around 9:00 am.
Picture-Perfect Views and Serendipity
About an hour into my hike, I stumbled upon one of the most breathtaking scenes of the entire trip. As I crested a small hill, I was met with a picturesque meadow of wildflowers against a rocky backdrop, with the sun just peeking through. It was such a perfect moment that I left the trail, knelt down, and captured one of my favorite photos from the trip.
Moving forward, I soon reached the saddleback between two massive mountains. The expansive view of peaks stretching to the horizon reminded me of my experiences summiting 14ers in Colorado. A sense of familiarity and awe kept my spirits high as I pressed on toward the Gspaltenhornhütte.
The Rewarding Stop at Gspaltenhornhütte
Eventually, I made it to the Gspaltenhornhütte, which certainly lived up to the hype. Standing there, I felt fortunate beyond belief to be witnessing such majesty. This hut was in the most amazing location! I ordered a beer from the sole person running the hut and found a quiet spot on the edge of the patio.
From there, I took in the sight of a massive glacier on the opposite side of the valley. Even now, my mind still struggles to fully grasp the scale of this glacier and the valley it shaped over millennia.
Once my beer glass ran dry, I strapped on my rucksack and set off toward Blüemlisalphütte. My weather app was warning me that a storm was likely to roll in around 6:00 p.m. Hiking down into the massive, stark valley formed over years of glacier melt and felt like stepping onto another planet.
There was absolutely no vegetation around, just the beautiful shade of grey covering all the rocks and boulders that all Swiss mountains posess. It was so different from what I had been seeing just days prior.
The Most Intense Climb Yet
It wasn’t long before I reached the most intense section of my entire hut to hut hiking adventure in Switzerland. For the next mile or so, I faced a daunting incline, forcing me to rest every few minutes. Up and up I climbed, struggling to make any real progress.
Each time I checked my map, I felt like I had only made it a few hundred feet in distance. To make matters worse, clouds began forming above me, raising my anxiety about the approaching weather. At that moment, I feared another turnout like day 2: missing the incredible views due to dense fog
With one final push up a set of treacherous, man-made stairs, I finally caught sight of the Blüemlisalphütte perched atop the mountain. I dug deep, took some steady breaths, and finished the climb with every ounce of strength I had left.
Reaching the summit, I was rewarded with the most awe-inspiring 360-degree views of my entire trip. To the west, the sun lingered above the horizon, while jagged peaks stretched endlessly to the east and north. To the south was a completely different story…
A Moment of Reflection and Celebration
One of the highlights of reaching the Blüemlisalphütte was the proximity to the massive glacier behind it to the south. You can’t truly appreciate the size of these glaciers until you’re standing just a few feet away from one.
By hiking another 500-600 feet south past the hut, you can walk right up to the glacier and feel its imposing presence. I sat here and listened to the small cracks and shifts it would make, anxiously wondering if it would break in half right in front of me.
As the sun began its descent, I settled into my final nightly ritual of enjoying a beer and a cigar atop a mountain. The setting sun reflected off the swirling clouds, creating a mesmerizing display of reds and oranges.
The Alps slowly transformed from grey to purple as they receded into the horizon. The crisp air, the quiet chatter of other hikers, and the stillness of the moment created an atmosphere of pure peace.
I had done it. I had finally accomplished a goal I set almost two years ago when I first arrived in Europe. Overwhelmingly, I felt joy and accomplishment. Yet, I couldn’t escape the bittersweet reality that this might be my last hike in the Swiss Alps for years.
In less than a month, I would be getting on a plane and heading to California for my next assignment. Conflicting emotions swirled within me—one moment, I was proud of my achievement, and the next, I regretted ever choosing to leave Europe.
A Bittersweet Ending
In an attempt to deal with these emotions, I did what any sensible person would do when both figuratively and literally on top of a mountain: I got drunk with the locals and shared my feelings.
People from all over the world couldn’t believe the stories I shared, and with each one, I felt a growing sense of closure. While it wasn’t the perfect ending to a day, it was probably the ending I needed to wrap up this incredible chapter of my life.
Day 7 – Blüemlisalphütte to Lake Oeschinensee
Waking up on the final day of my hut to hut hike in Switzerland felt strangely similar to New Year’s Day. On one hand, I felt like I had the world at my fingertips and that the possibilities ahead were endless.
On the other hand, I was hungover from last night’s beer and the celebration with newfound friends. There’s something bittersweet about an amazing experience coming to an end. While people always advise you to “cherish the memories” and “stay positive,” I think they often overlook the hard reality of letting go.
A Morning of Farewells and Final Moments
After a final breakfast of cold muesli, bread, and hot coffee, I took one last opportunity to absorb the sunrise over the Swiss Alps. Whether I wanted to accept it or not, this was my last morning in the place that had become my temporary home.
Reluctantly, I packed up my rucksack one final time, laced up my hiking boots, and said goodbye to my Belgian Army friend. Then, with a mixture of nostalgia and determination, I began my descent down the mountain, knowing that my next stop would be Lake Oeschinensee.
The Scenic Descent to Lake Oeschinensee
Today, I had one goal: to take a dip in Lake Oeschinensee and bring closure to this adventure. The path was all downhill, and I expected to reach the lake relatively quickly.
However, as I hiked, the breathtaking scenery above Lake Oeschinensee caused me to stop at least 50 times to capture photos of what is arguably the most beautiful alpine lake in all of Europe.
On my way, I passed by another biergarten before reaching the well-trodden trail that led down to the shores of the lake. Nostalgia was in full swing as I remembered the first time I enjoyed a beer here myself, and then again with Ciara about a year later.
As I continued descending, the trail grew more crowded, and I began hearing English more frequently.
In a weird sense, I became more and more proud of myself the lower I got. Not because I was better than anyone else, but because I was recognizing that I just completed something few will ever even have a chance to attempt.
I mean I really just went for it on this trip! I had an idea, made a plan, got on my motorcycle, and just went for it. I combined a motorcycle trip through the alps with nothing but a backpack on, and a 7-day hike across the Swiss Alps.
Who does that?!
Over the course of the last 7 days, I had lived out a dream that few will ever even attempt to realize themselves—and that made me feel proud of myself. Plus, hut to hut hiking in Switzerland isn’t for the faint of heart!
A Dip in the Lake and Reflective Moments
A few hours after departing from Blüemlisalphütte, I reached the shores of Lake Oeschinensee. Without hesitation, I stripped down to my underwear and dove straight into the clear blue-green water.
The temperature was shockingly cold, yet I felt utterly at peace. I floated on my back for about 20 minutes, savoring the stillness of the lake and the beauty surrounding me. It was as if, in that moment, my body was weightless, and my soul could have floated right up to heaven.
But as Robert Frost said, “Nothing gold can stay.” So, I reluctantly pulled myself out of the lake, dried off with an old shirt, and started making my way down the mountain, aware that my journey was nearing its end.
But not before I figured out how to get from Kandersteg to Wilderswil, where I had left my motorcycle.
A Final Descent into Kandersteg
As I descended into Kandersteg, I was treated to one final, stunning view of the Swiss Alps. I passed old ski lift runs, listened to the soft ringing of cowbells throughout the hills, and watched paragliders soaring gracefully above me.
All of this played out against one of the most epic backdrops you can find on this planet. And then, all too soon, I arrived at the Kandersteg train station. I bought my ticket to Wilderswil, where I would pick up my motorcycle and head back to my normal life in Stuttgart.
Final thoughts
As I reflect on this journey, I am filled with a profound sense of gratitude for the opportunity God gave me to experience the Swiss Alps in this way. These mountains have been more than just a destination—they’ve been a place of refuge, a proving ground, and ultimately, a home.
From the exasperation I felt on that second day when thick clouds robbed me of the views I had hoped for, to the triumph of reaching the Blüemlisalphütte with the sun painting the horizon in hues of purple and gold, every moment was a gift, even the tough ones.
I experienced deep lows, like the exhaustion that tested my spirit, but I also encountered some of the highest highs, such as the camaraderie shared with fellow hikers and the simple joy of sipping a beer after a hard climb.
Leaving this chapter behind is bittersweet. I know that the journey to California for my next assignment marks a new adventure, but it’s hard to leave the place where I’ve found so much peace and fulfillment. The Alps have a way of humbling you with their sheer beauty and reminding you of the vastness of the world.
While I may be moving on, I know that a part of me will always belong to these peaks and valleys. The ringing of cowbells, the whisper of alpine winds, and the sight of wildflowers set against rocky cliffs will remain etched in my memory.
And though I’ll be far away, these mountains will always be my home, calling me back someday, when I’m ready for another adventure.
Key things to know when Hut to Hut Hiking in Switzerland
Dinner and breakfast will be included in your nightly rate. Dinner is almost always a three course meal with a soup/salad, a main course, and dessert. Breakfast will likely be muesli, bread, butter/jam, and coffee or tea
Cash is king in Switzerland huts, but each hut is different. Some accept Visa, but you’ll need to contact the hut in advance to verify they take card.
The huts have mattresses, pillows, and blankets, so you will sleep in comfort!
Bring a sleeping bag liner. This will be required to sleep in the huts
Electricity is a luxury for some huts, so don’t expect to charge your cell phone at all of them. Other though will have power strips where you can pay a euro or two to charge up your device.
Each hut offers crocs for you to wear around the hut. This way, there’s not dirt everywhere!
Check the weather early and often as afternoon thunderstorms are frequent and regular. I use the app Meteoswiss which I’ve found to be extremely accurate. It can forecast bad weather down to the minute and within ½ a kilometer!
Top Tips for Hut to Hut Hiking in Switzerland
Carry cash
Book huts in advance, and verify they take card (if that’s how you want to pay). Otherwise, see bullet above.
Contact the hut early to inform them of your arrival and if you have any alergies.
Pack all clothes in ziplock bags. This will help not only with organizing your ruck sack, but it’ll keep everything dry when rain inevitability hits
Bring ear plugs
Buy hiking poles or bring them with you if you own them already
Bring a small, microfiber towel for drying yourself after a sponge bath
Always plan around the weather—it can change rapidly
Use the app Komoot to plan your hike—it has far better trail recognition than any other app I’ve ever used in Europe. Along with an elevation profile of your route, it also provides time estimates of where you’re likely to be along the route based on your fitness level!
