I want to kick off this post by affirming that being stationed in Europe is every bit as epic as the rumors suggest. While there are a few quirks to adapt to (seriously Germany, jaywalking tickets?), these past few years have unequivocally been the highlight of my life.
Being stationed in Germany has given me easy access to the Alps, which, for a Colorado native like myself, is nothing short of a dream playground. In the last six weeks, I’ve been fortunate enough to embark on weekend adventures across different parts of Europe, all thanks to the ample time off during the holiday schedule – a big shoutout to family days and those glorious 4-day weekends!
For a Colorado boy like me, the Alps proved to be the perfect holiday destination. In my opinion, they should be the go-to choice for anyone stationed in Europe. Why, you ask? Cruising down the mountain on a snowboard, enjoying a beer above the tree line, basking in bluebird days, and reveling in apres-ski festivities – just a glimpse into the incredible experiences that filled my life for six weeks over the holidays. And honestly, I wouldn’t have had it any other way!
Holiday seasons for the servicemember basically equate to minimal work hours (except for those unlucky few working crew…sorry, guys!). I mean, heck, even the Pentagon closes up shop for the holidays. For those of us in Europe, that equates to free time in some of the most sought-after destinations in the world!
One major perk of being stationed in or near Europe is the base ski clubs. I myself am a member of the Patch Ski Club: a ragtag group of military and civilian powder hounds who love skiing almost as much as après-skiing! For those in northern Germany (or near Ramstein), they have the Tannebaum Ski Club, which makes regular trips to the Alps. Wherever you are, there’s almost certainly a ski club for you.
I must mention that skiing and snowboarding in Europe are so much more than just the recreational sport itself! Ski resorts in Europe offer an exciting escape for both locals and transient military members. The whole experience is something you must try at least once while you’re stationed (or TDY) here.
So, whether you’re an expat navigating life in Europe or a lucky servicemember stationed here, I’ve got two ski resorts you absolutely need to consider before summer takes over: Ischgl in Austria and the Dolomites in Italy.
Navigating Two European Titans: Ischgl and the Dolomites
As we delve into the heart of our journey, let’s strap on our snowboards and skis to explore the exhilarating world of the four distinct European ski resorts: Ischgl, Arlberg, the Dolomites, and Solden.
Each of these alpine wonderlands boasts a unique charm, beckoning expats and military members alike to carve down the pristine slopes and experience the thrill of riding the Alps against breathtaking backdrops. Whether you’re chasing the adrenaline rush of steep descents or seeking the perfect powder for a leisurely cruise, these resorts offer a diverse range of skiing and snowboarding adventures.
Join me as I help you navigate through the nuances of each destination, discovering the slopes, the ambiance, and the distinct experiences that make these resorts stand out in their own right.
Ischgl, Austria
- Scenic Views: 8/10
- Extensive Ski Areas: 7/10
- Après-Ski Culture: 10/10
- Family-Friendly: 3/10
- Budget-Friendly: 4/10
One of Ischgl’s most unique features is its position straddling both Switzerland and Austria, offering you the chance to experience two countries in a single ski trip. To make the most of your visit, I recommend starting your day in sunny Switzerland and concluding it in Austria. The layout of the resort allows you to maximize your time in the sun.
Begin your day by taking the Silvrettabahn to Idalp, the central point of the resort. From here, you’ll have immediate access to all corners of the resort via six chairlifts heading in different directions. Start with the B3 lift for some excellent groomers to warm up.
Afterward, take the B2 lift up to the Swiss/Austrian border and send it into the Swiss Alps. Don’t forget to snap a sweet selfie at the massive Ischgl sign first! Then, head down to Alp Trida while exploring some easy blues and enjoying the majestic Swiss Alps. Spend a good hour or two here, you won’t regret it.
For a good lunch and a beer, make your way to the Champagne bar at Alp Trida. Then, I recommend venturing towards Thaya, a sweet spot on the opposite side of the mountain. There’s no wrong way to get there as every route offers a unique mountain experience. If you discover a fantastic run along the way, hit it a few times!
The Thaya area is almost certainly where you’ll want to conclude your day. Why’s that? Imagine an EDM club on the side of the mountain – that’s Thaya. Loudspeakers, a live DJ, long wait times for a drink, and lots and lots of schnaps. You’ll likely not be riding or skiing after a stopover here. So, just take it easy on your way back to town!
Once back in Ischgl, get ready for the best après-ski experience in all of Europe. No need to return to your resort, as every bar welcomes dancers in ski or snowboard boots (yes, it’s a thing out here!). Start with a beer at Kuhstall, enjoying the heat-pumping lamps on the patio as you melt away in a pilsner or an Aperol Spritz. If you’re vibing with the atmosphere at Kuhstall, stay for the DJ in the adjacent parking lot and waste the night away; you’ve earned it!
For a more club-like experience, stroll down the street to Trofana Alm. With two stories of dancing, club music, laser-light shows, and fantastic drinks, Trofana offers the ultimate European party scene. If experiencing the best après-ski in any European ski town is on your agenda, then Trofana is the place to be.
The Dolomites
- Scenic Views: 10/10
- Extensive Ski Areas: 10/10
- Après-Ski Culture: 6/10
- Family-Friendly: 10/10
- Budget-Friendly: 7/10
When skiing/riding the Dolomites in northern Italy, there’s only word you need to remember: Sellaronda.
The Sellaronda is an unmissable ski circuit, a must-do experience in the Dolomites. This route winds around the Sella Massif, a massive limestone formation, covering four mountain passes and connecting the four major Ladin valleys. The circuit is renowned for its stunning panoramic views, diverse landscapes, and charming alpine villages dotting the Italian Alps.
In layman’s terms, picture a massive rock formation reminiscent of something out of Middle Earth, and you get to ski around it… for six hours! Yes, the entire circuit spans approximately 40 kilometers (25 miles).
The Sellaronda route covers four mountain passes: Passo Gardena, Passo Campolongo, Passo Pordoi, and Passo Sella. As you traverse challenging slopes and scenic descents, the breathtaking Dolomite peaks follow you wherever you go. The best part? This well-connected lift system ensures seamless navigation throughout the circuit with large signs guiding you back on track anywhere you choose to deviate. This allows for greater opportunities to explore the charming villages all throughout the Ladin valleys!
Completing the circuit may take a full day, but experienced riders can conquer it in 4-5 hours. Take your time though! Really give your chance to bathe in all the beauty God has created here. This route is truly the most breathtaking thing I think I’ve ever experienced in all my days of snowboarding (over a decade now).
With regards to difficulty, take heart in knowing The Sellaronda caters to all rider types. From beginner to advanced skiers and snowboarders, there’s something here for every type of rider; it just depends on which way you go!
Perform the Sellaronda clockwise (following the orange signs), and you’ll encounter intermediate to advanced routes. Opt for the counter-clockwise direction (following the green signs), and you’ll experience much easier terrain suitable for beginners.
Charming mountain huts and après-ski spots dot the route, providing opportunities to relax, relish local cuisine, and immerse yourself in the alpine atmosphere.
Need help choosing where to stay? For vibrant après-ski scenes, opt for Santa Cristina Valgardena. Lively bars and dancing in ski boots are the norm in this exciting town. Luislkeller is one of the best places in town without a doubt. If a family-friendly atmosphere is what you seek, then consider Arabba. With delicious family-owned restaurants and some of the best tiramisu in the region, it’s a no-brainer for those with youngsters or picky foodies.
For those true adventure seekers, I must highlight Marmolada. Situated south of the Sellaronda, this remarkable route stretches a whopping 12km! Imagine the thrill of skiing or riding continuously for a solid 10 minutes – that’s the exhilarating experience Marmolada offers.
Reaching this beauty requires quite the journey with multiple lifts, so start early. To fully immerse yourself in this challenge, consider staying in Arabba. Keep in mind that the round trip can take a few hours, but the adventure is undoubtedly one of the Dolomites’ finest runs.
Can’t make it to Marmolada? No worries! Seceda (northwest of the Sellaronda) offers a fantastic alternative with a 10km run. Picture yourself navigating through a crevasse and whizzing past a 30ft-high frozen waterfall – an adventure worth every turn.
Conclusion: A Tale of Two Ski Resorts
In the heart of the Alps, Ischgl in Austria and the Dolomites in Italy stand as two titans among ski resorts, each offering a unique alpine experience that’s sure to captivate your senses. Having strapped in and carved through each of these Alpine wonders, I’ve been fortunate to experience the unique charms each destination unfurls.
Ischgl: A Symphony of Exploration and Après-Ski Revelry
Ischgl, the Austrian jewel cradled in the Alps, beckons with a symphony of nightlights and après-ski revelry that resonates deep into the mountain’s heart. As the sun dips below the peaks, Thaya erupts into an EDM-fueled celebration, and Trofana unveils its pulsating two-story dance floor. The Austrian nights are alive with a contagious energy that reverberates through every slope and every bar.
From a snowboarder’s perspective, Ischgl’s slopes are a playground of challenges and thrills. The impeccable grooming and challenging descents make each run an adrenaline-fueled escapade. Yet, it’s not just about the slopes; it’s about experiencing the vibrant nightlife and the eclectic après-ski culture that sets Ischgl apart.
The Dolomites: A Panorama of Alpine Grandeur
Switching goofy into the Dolomites, I found myself immersed in a panorama of alpine grandeur that stirred my soul at every toe-side turn. The picturesque landscapes with the Sella Massif standing sentinel, painted a canvas of unparalleled beauty. From the Sellaronda circuit, I witnessed nature’s masterpiece—a breathtaking journey around a colossal rock formation, skiing through a dreamscape reminiscent of Middle Earth.
In my opinion, the Dolomites claim the throne for the most awe-inspiring scenery. The Sellaronda circuit, a unique offering that Ischgl can’t quite match, is a testament to the Dolomites’ commitment to providing an all-encompassing skiing experience. Snowboarding through charming alpine villages, traversing challenging slopes, and enjoying the laid-back après-ski spots along the route created memories that still linger like the echo of a mountain breeze.
Budget-Friendly Trails and Unique Characteristics
From a practical perspective, Italy’s affordability shines through in the Dolomites, offering budget-friendly options that make the skiing experience accessible to a wider audience. Indulging in family-owned restaurants where wine is literally cheaper than water becomes not just an epicurean delight but also a testament to the Dolomites’ welcoming embrace.
As an avid traveler, I’ve discovered that each resort harbors a unique characteristic that another just can’t compete with. The Dolomites boast the Sellaronda, a skiing odyssey that weaves through four mountain passes while offering an unmatched blend of challenges and scenic beauty. Ischgl, on the other hand, presents the thrill of skiing or snowboarding across two countries with a single ticket—an exclusive experience that elevates the alpine adventure to new heights.
In summary…
In the end, the choice between Ischgl and the Dolomites becomes a matter of personal preference. Is it the pulsating nightlife and Swiss and Austrian Alps of Ischgl, or the unrivaled scenery and budget-friendly charm of the Dolomites that beckon you?
As a snowboarder and globetrotter, I can only encourage fellow enthusiasts to savor both experiences, carving through the unique stories etched into the snow by these European giants. May your tracks be deep, your memories abundant, and your winter adventures everlasting.
