During my college days at CU Boulder, the secrets of Crystal Mill ignited my imagination every night. Working as a bartender in a local hotel, my nightly ritual included ascending a set of stairs to prepare for my shifts. And, each night, I was thankful to be greeted by this massive, captivating photo of the Crystal Mill.
To me, this prominent photo of the Crystal Mill was full of secrets. Perhaps it was meant to remind visitors of the rugged beauty beyond the hotel walls. Or maybe it might have aimed to entice visitors to ponder the secrets hidden by the Crystal Mill. Always intrigued by its timless alure, I dreamed of exploring it myself one day.
Three years later, after completing the Ragnar Trail Run in Snowmass one weekend, I had one final day in the area before I had to return to work. So, like any seasoned traveler with a few extra hours in a new place, I turned to Google for suggestions.
“Hey Google, what are some attractions near me?”
Among the plethora of options on the map, Crystal Mill stood out like that photo always did during my bartending days. Without hesitation, I booked a night at a nearby hostel, eager to explore Crystal Mill the next day.
Getting to the Mill
After a restful sleep, I awoke with an extremely sore set of legs thanks to all that trail running. Nevertheless, I was on a mission: explore the secrets of Crystal Mill! My GPS wanted me to make my way towards Marble, park, then hike the rest of the way. If my legs could vocalize their protest, this would have been the moment for their loud groans!
Parking, I gauged that my tiny Chevy Volt wouldn’t make it in one piece. The requirement for high clearance well surpassed my 3-4 inches. So, I parked my car at 39°04’17.1″N 107°10’15.9″W and started my way towards the historic site. Another 9 mile round trip on dead legs? *Sigh* Here we go!
The trail offered an excellent hiking experience, boasting breathtaking scenery that invigorated my spirit. Slowly, my soul come back to life. Walking amidst the vibrant aspen groves, their fiery hues juxtaposed against the rocky terrain, I felt a sense of rejuvenation. They looked like wildflowers set in a field of prairie grass. I listined to the soothing white noise coming from the Crystal River, guiding the glacial water out of the valley. Not a soul was around, and I was completely OK with that.
About 4 and a half miles in, I found myself in awe as I stumbled upon an extraordinary sight. I had finally made it! It was time to discover the secrets of the Crystal Mill. Finally reaching my destination, I paused on a nearby bench. I Imagined the remarkable work environment this crew would have had, both good and bad.
Imagine being tasked with constructing a power generator in such a picturesque location. Wouldn’t that have been just the best work environment? I continued examining the Crystal Mill, pondering its workings and the reasons behind its decommissioning. How had it survived so many years of eager trailblazers, frontiersmen, and (now) tourists?
Discovering the town of Crystal
Suddenly, my attention was drawn to a weathered, wooden sign marking “Crystal – 0.3mi”. With a beckoning arrow over a slight rise, I pressed on to see what I could discover.
Continuing over a small hill, I found myself in the town of Crystal. Much to my surprise, I had just discovered a quasi-ghost town! A dirt road snaked through ~10 wooden cabins, complete with outhouses and rusted flag poles where American flags once flew. Strolling down “main street”, hummingbirds bombarded me with their buzzing like small, screaming mimis, wizzing inches above my head.
Beside the dirt road was a small channel of flowing water that had eroded its way from one side of town to the other. Tired and thirsty, I bent down with my hands cupped and took a drink. Nothing better than the feeling of being instantly refreshed by ice-cold water! Although, to my surprise, I saw a modern-looking vehicle parked next to one of the buildings ahead. I wondered if somehow this town was still in operation. To my surprise, it kind of was!
Meeting the owner!
I approached the building where the vehicle was parked when I heard a voice call out to me. A middle-aged gentleman approached and asked if I was doing OK and if I needed anything.
“Hey they, can I help you”?
Stunned that someone was asking me if I needed anything in the middle of a ghost town (que the X-files music), I told the man that I was visiting the Crystal Mill, but saw the sign for the town.
“Oh, yea that’s the main attraction around here. But this town is equally as interesting if you have a minute to hear the story”?
“Of course!” I replied.
Learning the Secrets of the Crystal Mill
The man introduced himself as Chris Cox, the owner and operator of all the land I was walking on; how cool is that?! What are the odds I’d meet the actual owner of the Crystal Mill land on my trip?
Chris enthralled me with tales of the town’s past and the accompanying secrets of Crystal Mill. He spoke about how the area used to be a silver mine site and how his great-grandfather was one of the original miners in the Aspen area. His great-grandfather acquired the majority of the property leases in the town of Crystal and it had remained in his family ever since! As he recounted the passing down of the land through generations, I marveled at the foresight and ingenuity of his ancestors
I couldn’t help but ask him every random question that popped into my head. And, patiently, Chris did his best to provide every detail he knew. It felt as if the very essence of Crystal Mill had materialized before me, weaving its intricate narrative through the words of Chris Cox. With each question I posed, I delved deeper into the rich tapestry of history. What was originally just a hike was now a transport back in time to an era of rugged exploration and enduring legacy.
6th Generation Owners!
Chris and I strolled alongside the small channel of water next to the century-old main street. He explained that his great-grandfather’s purchase had kept the town and much of the land in his family for over a century, spanning six generations! And then we got to the true secret of the Crystal Mill: why it was created and what it was used for.
Mr. Cox explained that the iconic Crystal Mill structure once housed a hydropneumatic powerplant. In other words: it compressed air to make energy. This was done in support of dynamite charges which were used to mine silver in the 1890. For it’s day, this was state of the art technology. However, during WWI, the silver market crashed around 1917 and the Crystal Mill had to close its doors overnight.
Exploring the Town of Crystal; , a quasi-ghost town
After the enlightening history lesson, Chris granted me access to any of open houses. I spent hours exploring the town, absorbing the history of the original log cabins, and entering them one by one.
My first stop was the Meadow Cabin, situated just a few feet away from the roaring North Fork of the Crystal River. As I entered, large wooden rafters and a cozy wood-burning stove greeted me. Two queen beds and a simple kitchen area occupied the room, reflecting simpler times. The soothing sound of the river acted as a natural white noise generator, enveloping me in tranquility. Pausing to absorb the scene, I then made my way across the lawn to The Cinnamon Roll house.
Pushing open the wooden screen door, I stepped into a scene similar to the Meadow Cabin with the exception of a second story. The staircase creaked as I ascended upwards and could feel a noticeable increase in temperature. Upstairs, two more queen beds sat beneath the pictureframe windows, offering a view of the surreal surroundings. Descending the stairs, I prepared to leave when a black and white photo caught my eye. It depicted an elderly couple, Bonnie and Leland Stanford, circa 1998. Unsure of who they were, I drew my focus to their ear-to-ear grins and shared in their moment of joy before I closed the door behind me.
With one final moment of peace, I took in my surroundings, gave thanks for the adventure I was able to experience, and started my trek back towards my car, my legs anxiously awaiting rest.
Experience the secrets of Crystal Mill yourself!
If this story inspires you to visit this incredible place, I’d recommend staying at the actual town of Crystal for a unique experience. Yep, you can rent the cabins up here! Book reservations here.
If you’d like more information about this excursion, drop a comment below and let me know how I can help! I also documented quite a few of my Colorado adventures from when I was stationed there. Feel free to check them out for more travel inspiration. Lastly, if this hike intrigues you, be sure to hike to Skagway Powerplant; you’ll thank me later!
